SNOW MONKEYS IN JAPAN WITH KIDS

SNOW MONKEYS IN JAPAN WITH KIDS

After having the snow monkey park on my personal bucket list for more than 15 years (!!) I finally got to check it out!
I was also able to suss it out for families in order to make it as easy as possible to see the snow monkeys keeping their little butts warm, as possible.

How to get to the Snow Monkey Park from Tokyo?
The official Japanese name for the Snow Monkey Park is Jigokutani Yaen Koen but all English signage says Snow Monkey Park (but good to remember if you’re asking for assistance and the Japanese person you’re talking to doesn’t know what you mean.)

The simplest way is to:

1) Take a bullet train from Tokyo to Nagano.  This trip takes approximately 1.5 hours. I purchased a non-reserved seat and a  one way ticket was around 9000 yen.
2) Put any heavy luggage in a coin locker at Nagano Station
3) Go to bus stop 23 on the east side of Nagano Station.  (Yes there is a train option but that means more walking at the other end so I recommend aiming for the bus and using the train as a back up.)
4) Take the Nagaden Snow Monkey Express bus to the Snow Monkey Park entrance.
This trip takes approximately 45 mins.  Here is the Nagaden Snow Monkey Express bus time table. (Please note that the timetable changes with the seasons.)
It’s best to arrive into Nagano at least 40 mins before your bus departure time. Firstly, because you need locker time, toilet time (no toilets on the bus), being the countryside the timetable can change slightly so being early helps and, finally, if there is a line for the bus – you don’t want to miss out.    The bus costs 1800 yen per adult and you pay as you get off the bus.  The bus takes cash and some credit cards (some people were having trouble with their cards) so I think cash is the safest option.  (Actually having cash is always important in the Japanese countryside.) 
5) Walk to the entrance of the Snow Monkey Park. This walk takes around 5 minutes. If, for some reason, you are confused by where to go, put Cafe Enza into google maps as it is right near the entrance.
This part is a slow but reasonably hefty hill climb (one of the few hard going parts of the walk.)
6) Follow the Snow Monkey trail through to the Monkey Park to see the monkeys playing around and having a little chill in the onsen!   The walk takes around 25-30 minutes or so each way if you’re walking at a slow but steady adult pace.  In the snow it will, of course, take longer.
*As you get on and off the bus, please take note of the bus return times! They are quite far apart ( one bus every two hours or so) so make sure you choose a bus time to return for and try to stick to it. If you get stuck, you can take a train, but you will then need to take a local bus to Yudanaka Station and then a train to Nagano.

 

Nagaden Snow Monkey Express Bus
Express bus return times are far apart and change with the seasons

 

What age is the best age to take kids to the Snow Monkey Park?
This is my personal opinion but I think kids in a baby carrier is ideal.
Then, around 6 years and older (once they can walk for a decent amount of time on their own.)
The hike is mostly flat with about three relatively big hills/ sets of steps along the way.  The way to check is to take your little one on a relatively mild hike somewhere close to home and make sure the hike is around 1.6 kilometers ( approximately 1 mile.) If they can manage that ok then I’d say you’re good to go!

For kids, what age would you definitely not recommend for the Snow Monkey Park?
Once again, for me, I wouldn’t take a child that was just starting to walk and won’t go in a baby carrier any more.  The walk is too much for them and too hard for you to carry them on and off.   It will fill you with regret  once you get there- trust me.
I also wouldn’t take any child too young to listen to safety instructions. Although not terribly dangerous – some parts of the path are muddy or slippery and there is big hill (not a cliff but a steep hill) next to the path for some of the way.    So, for me, I wouldn’t take a child who is a runner or can’t hold hands when needed.  Goes without saying that grown ups should walk on the outside and kids on the inside of the path.

Is the Snow Monkey Park worth it? 
I think yes yes yes!! It’s touristy but it’s popular for a reason. Those monkeys are tame and out there living their best onsen life. It’s really special.

Is the walk to the Snow Monkey Park really difficult?
No. The walk is 90% flat path.  There is a steep incline before you begin the trail. Then a steep set of stairs for about 15 metres and then more stairs for one steps hill just before you get to the end of the trail.
So you can tell your kids – 3 rough bits then and that is it. Just straight flat walking for most of the way.
I visited in late November so there was no snow. I have heard that the path can be more difficult and more slippery in snow, of course. You can check the live cam of the monkey park on the day (or days leading up to your visit) on the park’s YouTube channel here to see if it is snowing as that will help you choose your footwear etc and anticipate how much longer the walk may take.

Is there somewhere to rest part way through the Snow Monkey Park trail?
A little over half way there is a little wooden rotunda.   Other than that, no sitting spots in between the trail entrance and the Snow Monkey Park reception / ticket booth.

Can I take a stroller to the Snow Monkey Park?
No.  It’s baby carrier or a walking child kind of trip.

What should we wear to the Snow Monkey Park?
You can check the live cam of the monkey park on the day (or days leading up to your visit) on the park’s YouTube channel here to see if it is snowing as that will help you choose your footwear.
I visited in late November and there was no snow. I did the whole walk in converse sneakers and it was no problem. My jeans had some mud splash but my feet were dry (well… dry for a very rainy day. So the water was only coming from above, if you know what I mean.)
For snowy weather, you are able to rent shoes at the gift shop at the trail entrance near Enza Cafe. You can also rent gloves and coats etc.
So, for a non-snowy day – I recommend everyone dressed in a good quality puffer/ down jacket, long trousers or jeans with a thin sweater or turtle neck style top underneath (don’t layer and layer as inside the bus and trains and cafes are hot so the idea of  quickly peeling off that top layer is key.  I honestly think of it like wearing long but thin winter pjs under a lovely thick duvet in bed. I speak more about what to wear and layering in Japan here.) I also recommend beanies and gloves in your bag just in case they are needed.

Good Quality Puffer Jacket

If you are staying at a ryokan near the monkey park, they will most likely have boots to rent. I recommend doing this if you can – one less things to carry and one less thing to clean if they get all dirty and muddy – you can just hand them back and it’s someone else’s problem.

What should we take to the Snow Monkey Park when travelling with kids?
Portable phone charger.  Wet wipes (these also work as tissues too) and band aids.  Spare trousers and socks for kids. Backpacks ( as light as you can manage.) Snacks that you can quickly pop in a child’s mouth (think jellybeans) as the park staff don’t recommend any plastic bags or wrappers as the monkeys think it is food for them – so something light in your pocket to dish out quickly for a little burst of energy is ideal.  Cash (not a lot but I think it’s best to have around 20,000 yen on you as a family total to cover food and transport costs and any little souvenirs and bus fare etc ( you won’t need all of this but it’s better to be over prepared, right?)

Could we take a taxi from Nagano Station to the Snow Monkey Park?
I guess you could.  It’s a pricey way to do it though, but you could.
There are lots of taxis at Nagano Station.  Getting home via taxi is harder though as there just aren’t many (if any) around.
If you take a taxi from Nagano Station to the Snow Monkey Park trail entrance, it will take 45-60 mins and cost approx 19,000 yen.

Is there a way to skip that walk/trail into the monkey park?
Nope. Sorry. You’ve got to do that bit on foot.

Should we cancel our trip if it rains?
No way. I don’t even think you should take an umbrella if it does. A jacket with a hood and keep moving. In fact, rain sometimes scares off other tourists which is nicer for you!  Just keep moving – those monkeys are out in that onsen no matter what.

What time of day is the best to see the Snow Monkeys at the park?
I, personally, think morning or late morning is best. It gives you more time to miss buses and more time to not worry about the park closing etc.   I wanted to be on the first bus out from Nagano but didn’t make the train I wanted from Tokyo so I took the second bus. It was fine but I wouldn’t wanted to have been much later as it didn’t me as much chill time on the way back to the bus stop – or as much as  the worry wart in me would have liked.

How long do I need to spend at the Snow Monkey Park with kids?
Including the trail into the park, I think 2-3 hours is plenty of time to take it in, use the loos, have a snack afterwards.

Do I have to stay near the Snow Monkey Park to make the best of my time there?
Not at all. Before I visited, I read that it’s a waste not to but you definitely don’t have to.  There really isn’t much else out there so you’d need to make sure that the hotel is part of the experience in itself.
Many people have loved making it an overnight full experience – with most people saying that they loved staying at Yudanaka Onsen and Shibu Onsen. So, you can stay near by but you definitely don’t have to!
I, personally, would choose to stay in Nagano instead or make a day trip of it from Kyoto.

Are the monkeys at the Snow Monkey Park aggressive?
I didn’t see any aggressive monkeys at all. Guests are not to touch or come within a metre of the monkeys. The monkeys are VERY VERY comfy with humans but not so interested in them – just walking in between people and around them.  They don’t seem to care that they are being watched and photographed all the time.
There is a sign as you enter the park reminding you to not have any food on the outside of your bag or plastic bags around your wrist – in case the monkey think it’s snacks for them.

Is there anywhere to eat lunch near the Snow Monkey Park?
Yes. There are two places.
There is Enza Cafe just before the trail begins. They serve light meals – including ramen.  They also serve hot drinks and lots of apple pie (Nagano is famous for apples so there are apple dishes everywhere.) They also serve soft-serve ice-cream – vanilla or of course, apple flavour.  This cafe also sells umbrellas for 600 yen.  This place has log cabin vibes.

The other option is Hotarutei.  This is a hot pot restaurant and is quite high end. I recommend booking ahead and having an hour up your sleeve to dine here – it’s special and a bit fancy.  Budget is around 10,000 yen per adult. The staff here do speak English. It is in a beautiful old Japanese building.

Where are the toilets at the Snow Monkey Park?
There are toilets next to  bus stop 23 for the Snow Monkey Express  Bus ( no toilets on board.)
Toilets at the bus stop at the snow monkey park.
Toilets half way between the bus stop and the snow monkey park entrance (half way up the hill)
Toilets at the entrance and at Enza Cafe.
Toilets at the Snow Monkey Park reception at the end of the trail.
*No toilets on the actual trail (but that really is only 25 mins walk between toilets max.)

Where can I change baby at the Snow Monkey Park? 
I have personally seen a change table at the toilets half way between the trail entrance and the bus stop ( so approx 3-5 mins walk from the bus stop drop off point on your way up to the monkeys.)
Can you see the change table in the all access toilet in the pic below?

Could I do the Snow Monkeys after my ski trip in Hakuba?
You could! Nagano Station is about 2 hours from Hakuba on public transport. Might be best to stay in Nagano that night as it’s a lot of extra travel for one day.
If you do want to go directly it can be a bit of a bus hopping journey (google maps will help you plan it out.) There is also a direct bus from Hakuba to the monkey park in snowy months.  It’s run by a tour company called Snow Monkey Tour.  They also stop along the way so passengers can use the toilets and buy snacks etc.

See here for my general Nagano with kids tips here. 

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