The holiday in Tokyo must go on – even when exploring on Tokyo rainy days with a baby !
This was the kind of day I would plan for when we first arrived in Tokyo and my youngest was 4-5 months old. This is also the type of itinerary I follow when I have a friend visiting with a very little one.
At this age, when they don’t have the desire (or stamina) to actually walk everywhere, I would base my day around food – play for baby – food and a bit of sightseeing – play for baby – more food.
And when I say food – I mean the cool, fun, amazing Japanese food that YOU want to eat while in Tokyo because they are only little enough to have a little taste of some foods anyway and aren’t old enough to start scrunching up their noses if it’s not what they expected.
For this age on a disgustingly rainy day I would plan for a day out in Daikanyama, Ebisu and Shibuya. These areas are all close together and have some places you can put baby down for a little play, lots of changing and breastfeeding rooms and amazing restaurants to choose from.
These areas are some of my favourite in Tokyo and I’m excited to share the way that I think that you can still have a really nice day out – even if the weather is being gross.
I would base most of the day aroud Daikanyama and anything a few minutes walk after that can just be a “oh my god how did we get away with such a busy day out with a baby?” bonus.
Daikanyama is often called Soho of Tokyo. I love it so much. My husband I love to joke that this is exactly where our child-less alter-egos reside.
If you’re keen on eating out for breakfast I highly recommend Blu Jam. The food is amazing and the staff are so lovely. Be warned that there are not any highchairs – although they do offer sofa seating.An alternative breakfast option is Ivy Place in the Daikanyama T-Site Complex. They do have high chairs here.
We love dining here at anytime of the day and find breakfast/brunch to be particularly kid friendly. Unfortunately they do not take reservations for groups with children so I recommend getting there early and having a little play in the courtyard outside the restaurant if you need to wait for your table. They are well-known for their yummy pancakes.
Breakfast looks like yummy eggs and pancakes and I had lunch here and my salad was also amazing! (If you live in Japan you’ll understand just how hard a truly good salad is to come by)
IVY PLACE
DAIKANYAMA T-SITE, 16-15 SARUGAKUCHO
猿楽町16-15, 代官山T-SITE
OPEN 7am-11pm (BREAKFAST 7am-10:45am, LUNCH 11:30am-3pm, DINNER 6pm-11pm)
(PANCAKES SERVED 7am-5pm)
WEBSITE
Regardless of where you have breakfast I would highly recommend exploring the T-site complex. Take a wander through all of the floors.
The complex is based around what is often labelled the best bookstore in the world, Tsutaya Daikanyama. I absolutely love this bookstore.
The bookstore itself houses its own Starbucks and convenience store, a bar and cafe and so many beautiful corners to read, shop, study, listen to music and just generally be inspired. As the bookstore is called Tsutaya, the building is covered with and shaped like the letter “T.” Take a look at their website (below) for more information on the design and architectural acclaim it received when opening in 2011.
My children love popping on the headphones and listening to music, looking in the toy and children books section and there are often little interactive robots in the electronic section. As for me? I can’t get enough of the design books and the extensive range of novels and coffee table books on Japan and Japanese culture and aesthetics.
I recommend heading to the children’s section of the bookstore and there are some beautiful spots to put baby down for some tummy time and a stretch. There are also lots of board books in both English and Japanese to look through together.
16-15 SARUGAKUCHO, SHIBUYA
渋谷区猿楽町16-15
OPEN 7AM-2AM
WEBSITE
Within the same complex is the Bornelund Toy Store. There is a playarea in here which is also suitable for babies and toddlers to have a chance to play outside of the stroller or carrier.
BORNELUND DAIKANYAMA
渋谷区猿楽町16−15
16-15 SARUGAKUCHO, SHIBUYA-KU
OPEN 10AM-8PM
Once you’ve finished up at T-site, if the rain has let up, even a little I recommend walking for a couple of minutes to Kyu Asakura House. The gardens look even more beautiful in the rain.
This house was designated as an ‘Important Cultural Property’ in 2004.
The property is called Kyu Asakura House and entry is 100 yen.
It’s a beautiful spot to take a walk with kiddies or with a little baby strapped on tight. We spend about 20-30 minutes here with kids (maybe less with adults?) and I’d advise leaving strollers near the house entrance as there are stairs both inside and outside the building.
There is a restroom within the ground but for even nicer facilities I’d recommend using the T-site restrooms first.
KYU ASAKURA HOUSE
渋谷区猿楽町29-20
29-20 SARUGAKUCHO, SHIBUYA
OPEN 10AM-6PM ( CLOSES AT 4:30PM FROM NOVEMBER – MARCH)
CLOSED MONDAYS
WEBSITE
My favourite family-friendly restaurants are the kind that don’t feel too family friendly. This one ticks the box for me! Kichiri has such yummy food and a grown up vibe but it is also good for kids. Even small babies in fact as staff will organize a seat with a large cushion backing so babies could even get in some “tummy-time” while you eat!
Kichiri is a chain of restaurants so, if you’re a fan, you can keep an eye out for them all over Japan. I would call the food ‘Japanese fusion’. The menu is in English and it’s open until 2am (last orders at 1am) The restaurant’s interior is minimal, chic and futuristic. I love it!
I recommend making a booking (especially if there are more than 2 of you.) Once you enter the restaurant, shoes go in a locker and you hang on to your key….
then you’ll be shown to your table.
The tables are all floor level but the place where you put your legs (below the knee) is cut out – so your body is still making a “sitting in a chair”- shape.
After you’ve placed your order, your waiter will bring you an “otoshi” which is a tiny appetizer of the day. It’s probably best to think of this as a compulsory “table charge.” (This is standard practice in Japanese Izakaya Pubs)
It looks quite fancy inside but I think it’s pretty reasonable. With drinks and ordering a few dishes each , I’d probably budget for 4000 yen per person? (way less for children, of course) There are also course menu options. There are other Kichiri’s all over Tokyo. For example: Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Ginza & Shibuya.
My favourite dish BY FAR is the fried corn. The picture doesn’t do it justice. It’s just so hard to not order another serving!
KICHIRI EBISU
渋谷区恵比寿1-8-12キュープラザ恵比寿6F
6th FLOOR, Q PLAZA EBISU BUILDING, 1-8-12 EBISU, SHIBUYA
OPEN: EVERYDAY
OPEN FOR LUNCH: 11AM-3PM
OPEN FOR DINNER: 5PM-2AM
WEBSITE
I also have a parent and baby cafe in this area to recommend. Personally, I wouldn’t go here for a meal – but maybe for afternoon or morning tea or just a place for a moment of peace on a busy day. It is clean, well-equipped and cute.
This Parent & Baby Cafe sometimes call themselves Chano-ma and sometimes Chano-mama.
The people who created this place clearly had a baby at the time as they have thought of everything.
The restaurant is set up so, much like in traditional Japanese houses, the floor and table and “chairs” (seating spots) are all on the same level. Baby’s can roll and play and have tummy time and all of that good stuff. Kind of like hanging out with your baby on a giant double bed.The food for the parents is lovely and healthy too.
I’ve translated the menu (below). This was the menu in September 2017.
If you visit and the menu has changed substantially, please let me know and send me a picture and I’m happy to update as I go!Warning: If you don’t like hanging around lots of babies here….avoid!! It’s a bit of a mad-house at lunchtime so… I’d go early or late-ish if you have that luxury.Oh… and also…. I really think this place is for little babies … so once your baby is properly crawling… I think it’s time to “graduate” to a new lunch spot ( enjoy it while you can.)This cafe is technically in Daikanyama but it’s almost Ebisu too so feel free to add some Ebisu activities before and afterwards. (Ebisu with Kids suggestions are here. )
恵比寿西1-34-17 ZA HOUSE ビル2F
2ND FLOOR, ZA HOUSE BUILDING, 1-34-17 EBISU-NISHI
OPEN 10AM-10PM
( ALTHOUGH IT STOPS BEING A BABY SPOT AT 5PM & LAST ORDER IS 3:30PM)
If , somehow, you are still going strong (you need to email me your tips if you still are!) I would consider a train, cab or a 15 minute walk to Shibuya Crossing. I know it’s rainy – but the crossing is a must!!
Even after living in Japan for more than 10 years I still get the tummy butterflies and that selfie-twitch (yep – I said it) when crossing that massive intersection.
My hubby and I believe that it needs to be seen by day and by night.
With kids, of course, by day is so much easier and I recommend walking across in a few different directions and then ordering a coffee at Starbucks and enjoying it all from the second floor – it’s one of the best views and a great spot for people-watching. You may see the Mario-carts race-by or the latest Tokyo trend : international tourists taking kissing wedding photos in the middle of the intersection before the lights change. This Starbucks is open until 4am so there is plenty of time to catch the view at night if the opportunity presents itself.
Keep a look out on the opposite side of the road to the station for a little fruit store – ” Nishimura Fruits Parlor” you may want to take a look at this very, very high-end produce that is sold as gifts. I’m talking US$200 cantaloupe melons and $100 strawberries. ( In other words, keep those little hands back, ok? Eeeeek.) But seriously, the very front of the store has some reasonably priced fresh fruits of the season and fruit juice smoothies too – that won’t make you completely poor.
SHIBUYA CROSSING
JUST NEAR THE HACHIKO EXIT OF SHIBUYA STATION
If you fancy a casual sushi train restaurant after the crossing – Just halfway up the hill from the crossing is Uobei Sushi Restaurant. Turn right down an alley after Mos Burger and it’s on your right. This place is such a fun place to take children as all orders are made on an ipad with pictures and then the orders come zooming down a conveyor-belt and stop right in front of your seat. This is a fantastic place to try different kinds of sushi for the first time but it’s also great for fussy eaters as it’s also possible to order fries, noodles, ice-cream and fried chicken. You could even try a weird and wonderful sushi hybrid “cheeseburger sushi roll.” All dishes are around 100-200 yen each so it’s actually really difficult to spend too much money.
It’s not posh and the food isn’t going to be awarded a Michelin star anytime soon – but it’s such a fun way to dine.
*For adults only* Why not try a Japanese mixed drink called a Lemon Sour or a Lemon Chu-Hai ? Kanpaii ! (Cheers!)
It’s not possible to reserve a table so just tell the staff how many people and wait for your spot to open up. Customer turnover is really high so the wait has never been longer than 10 minutes for us before.
They also have highchairs for babies. How cute is my niece – out for lunch!
UOBEI SUSHI
2 -29-11 DOGENZAKA, SHIBUYA
渋谷区道玄坂2-29-11
OPEN WEEKDAYS: 10:40AM-11PM
OPEN WEEKENDS: 10AM-11PM
UOBEI SUSHI SHIBUYA DOGENZAKA DETAILS HERE
Right near the crossing is the very famous department store Shibuya 109. It’s the mecca for Kawaii shopping. It’s full of affordable, kawaii, glitzy, sparkly, kitschy, loveliesness all aimed at teenage and University-aged young women. It’s a great spot to enter – just for some very interesting window shopping. (In case the boys are feeling left out… these is also a Shibuya 109 Mens around the corner too.)
I highly recommend a trip to the B2 floor to the Print Club (purikura as it’s often called for short) .
Edit : As of May 22, 2019, Moreru Mignon in Shibuya has moved to the B2F in the basement. The theme is more about the purples and darker colours but it is equally as photogenic.
The store is equipped with curling and straightening irons ( for rental use) and there are plenty of make up mirrors to ensure you look your best at photo time.
The shop itself is…well… basically ….my little girls’ dream bedroom.
This place is crazily busy on the weekends so be warned (although it’s okay if you go first thing in the morning.)
First thing in the morning or last thing at night is probably the best way to get a good look around and use the photo booths.
The print clubs are all 500 yen each.
They even have an English instruction sheet.
Even if you don’t take photos in the machines – the shop itself is like one giant pastel photobooth.
MORERU MIGNON
渋谷区道玄坂2-29-1 SHIBUYA 109 B2F
2-29-1 DOGENZAKA, SHIBUYA
B2 FLOOR, SHIBUYA 109 DEPARTMENT STORE
OPEN 10AM-9PM
WEBSITE
If you’re looking for somewhere for breakfast (open from 7am ! Almost unheard of for a proper sit down brekkie in these parts!) Try Trunk Kitchen.
It is worth the 13 min walk from Harajuku station and 11 mins from Shibuya – if you crave a western breakfast.
The building is designed so beautifully and it has a large outdoor terrace which makes it extremely kiddie friendly.
Here is the Full Trunk Menu.
They serve Western-style breakfast.
If you decide to visit in the evening ,the hotel interior and bar doesn’t quite feel appropriate for children but the Trunk Kushi (skewered meat & veg) restaurant out the front of the hotel definitely is fine – with outdoor seating and, once again, enough space for a little wriggle.
TRUNK HOTEL (KITCHEN)
渋谷区神宮前５-31-7
5-31-7 JINGUMAE, SHIBUYA
OPEN FOR BREAKFAST: 7:00 A.M. – 10:00 A.M.
OPEN FOR LUNCH: 11:30 A.M. – 3:00 P.M.
OPEN FOR DINNER: 6:00 P.M. – 11:00 P.M.
TRUNK KITCHEN WEBSITE
I think that’s all my ideas for now for these areas in the rain (apart from just eating and shopping more, of course.) If, at any point in the day the weather clears up – I recommend checking out my Daikanyama with Kids, Ebisu with Kids and Shibuya with Kids posts … because then you’ve have almost 10 times as many options as above.
